A Winged Elm Farm Alphabet: “R”

R is for the Rooster

He literally rules the roost, determines the pecking order and is the king of the barnyard. His crow is the opening note on that sheet music of the farm, a dramatic solo signaling the arrival of each day.

A Speckled Sussex rooster at three-years is a creature of beauty, broad of chest, dark red combs and wattles, long spurs and a full and colorful plumage. While the hens have their heads down eating his is up and vigilant for interlopers. Mating dozens of times a day he makes one exhausted with imagining the possibilities.

And when that day finally arrives and the old boy has lost his crow, he is butchered and cooked into a most satisfying coq-au-vin. And, next morning, around five, the new king of the barnyard sounds his opening note for the day.

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Reading this weekend: Kith: the riddle of the childscape by Jay Griffiths, an exploration of the loss of play and independence in modern childhood.

Habitat Loss

What happens to us as a people when the sources of knowledge are only to be found outside of our communities? When we ask the internet for gardening advice on a plot of land between Paint Rock Valley and Big Sandy instead of the farmer who has lived those conditions for eighty years? When our education is served up by the likes of the University of Phoenix instead of the slightly eccentric teacher living down the street? When childhood summers consist of structured play and digital devices instead of pirates and adventures?

Is the human spirit so easily channeled and contained? Is the knowledge needed to live so easily reduced and boxed up for our consuming pleasure and sold to us at Wal-Mart? Where does the “person” exist in that world?

I’ve been experiencing loss this last week for something only known to me for fifteen years and no doubt making a bit more of it than needed. But I have an old fashioned conservative streak running through my bones that hates change. So when the Sweetwater Fruit Market closed their doors a couple of weeks ago after thirty years I began to tally what was lost not just to me but to our community.

We lost a great source for fruit and vegetables sourced locally and regionally long before that became trendy. They were carrying heirlooms when they were still just the old-fashioned varieties everyone always grew. I grieve over the loss of their seed selection. The store carried ten to twenty varieties of cowpeas alone, not to mention a couple of dozen varieties of sweet corn. They knew the best variety of potato for our clay soils (Kennebec’s) and when to plant. Do you think the Lowes garden department will match that knowledge or localized selection?

Theirs was a typical small town business that carried too many items with too small margins of profit. A place that dispensed advice built on their local knowledge and from local farmers. It was a business that any small town community supported easily before the era of big-box stores. The ripple effect of this closing will extend beyond the owners and the customers. It extends from the small farm providing collards and beets to the pig farmer who weekly collected the spoiled produce. And it extends to who we are as a people and what we expect from our community.

It is another in a long line of essential businesses rendered not essential by those who can’t be bothered to shop anywhere but Wal-Mart or its ilk.

How many times do you hear someone bemoan the lack of civility, the loss of community? Yet their weekly shopping habits adds to that misery and increases that loss of community and civility from not knowing or being responsible to ones neighbors, supporting them so that they may in turn support you.

Our communities are suffering from what I see as a habitat loss as real as the loss in the natural environment. We collectively strip those habitats, both natural and social, of resources we cherish. And then express our disgust and amazement at their loss. No doubt I’m making too much of this small loss to our community. But it seems a symptom of something larger that does make one wonder what we truly value.

A Winged Elm Farm Alphabet: “Q”

Q is for Queen Anne’s Lace

The morning dew draws your eye to the lace while a new spider web anchors the flower to surrounding grasses. Delicate in appearance unlike its corpulent name sake, Queen Anne’s Lace is a welcome guest on our land. Similar in appearance to poison hemlock, make sure to know the difference unless your name be Socrates.

While also useful for eating (the wild carrot) or treating gout we simply appreciate its role in attracting pollinators. Like the butterfly bushes, crape myrtles and hydrangeas around our house and the iron weed in the fields, Queen’s Anne Lace in bloom is covered by honey bees, butterflies, wasps and humming birds.

As one guest species to another we appreciate its contributions.

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Reading this week: Seamanship: a voyage along the wild coasts of the British Isles by Adam Nicholson. A book about a modern man’s lack of life shaping drama and skills needed.

Pig Jowls and Birthday Dinners

Guanciale wrapped

Guanciale wrapped

Guanciale unwrapped

Guanciale unwrapped

Each time we get our hogs slaughtered I make sure to get the jowls back fresh not frozen. The jowl is similar to the belly that is used for bacon. And it is perfect for curing. Hanging under the stairs alongside a ham or two there is usually at least one jowl waiting for our occasional dishes of spaghetti alla carbonara. The cured jowl is traditionally called guanciale when called for in a recipe.

Recently, in addition to the carbonara, I have discovered the joys of making roulade with pork cutlets wrapped in strips of guanciale. Since the cucumber harvest began overloading the kitchen counter at the start of the season we have been looking for ever more creative ways of using the surplus. Simple salads of cucumbers, onions, mint and yogurt or cucumber, tomato and basil have graced pretty much every dinner since May. But thanks to a New York Times piece a month ago we have begun fermenting our pickles. Big spears of cucumber with fresh dill, garlic, peppercorns and coriander seeds packed into jars with water and salt yield terrific pickles in less than a week.

So as we prepared my birthday dinner a few days back roulade was the perfect choice to take advantage of the pickle spears, the guanciale and the pork cutlets. We finished the dish with gravy made from some homemade onion jam, cream and fresh chanterelles. Dessert was Cindy’s banana pudding crested with huge waves of fresh meringue washing across the surface.

And if you think I am boasting and a bit of a braggart you are correct.

A Winged Elm Farm Alphabet: “P”

P is for Planting

It is an act of hope for another day, another season, another year, another chance at getting it right. A belief and understanding that the days will lengthen, hope that Persephone will be allowed to return home to her mother, that green shoots will emerge and that a harvest will result. That fat ears of corn, fresh greens and perfectly ripened tomatoes will grace your garden. That you will take real pleasure and a misappropriated sense of power in seeing white and red clover sown by your hand, cover the land. That the maple trees planted last fall will yield shade in a short ten years on some summer day.

That work of preparing the soil, saving the seed, putting up fences and taking them down, sowing cover crops, tilling them into the dirt is all done so that one fine August evening you can sit down with your family.  Sit down at a table with platters of tomatoes and basil, roasted ears of corn, potato salad and grilled pork chops from a pig fattened on sweet clover and overripe squash.

Because that act of planting is for the harvest.

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Reading this weekend: The Wet and The Dry by Lawrence Osborne, it is a kind of travel book exploring the cultural landscapes of the Muslim world through the light of a gin and tonic.