Farm Postcard: Garlic

We got home late last night from a dinner with friends in a neighboring county. One of them is considered the “Garlic Lady” at the area farmer’s market. So, it was fitting that we dined on a garlic pesto, garlic soup, had a garlic salad dressing, and, for the main course, a pork roast stuffed with garlic. So, this morning, having harvested our own modest garlic crop the day before, I pulled it all into the barn to complete the curing process. That, overall, seemed to make for a fairly neat theme to a weekend.

 

Gimme Three Steps (Three Hopeful Steps to Feeding the Planet by Feeding Yourself)

Raise and grow what you like to eat. This may seem obvious. Perhaps it is the lazy Southerner in me, but too often would-be farmers are focused on the business and not the pleasures gained from working the land. They visit our farm and I hear the schemes with numbers and data. Slow down, I tell them. What do you like to eat each night, I ask? For special occasions? Focus on that. Give yourself the goal of feeding yourself and your family. Then see if you can turn a profit. But make the profit the byproduct.

And, you don’t have to live in the country to produce a significant part of your diet or at least add to your table. We all know someone in the city who has a magnificent garden, even keeps hens or bees. I have a niece in Oregon who, with her fiancé, raises crawfish in a mini-aquaculture system next to the garage. If you have even a small parcel and are willing to work, Mother Nature can be a wonderful partner.

Eat what you grow and raise. The rural French, God love ‘em, have an elevated peasant cuisine. All cultures have a cuisine of want, born of the land, hard work, and frugality. But country French cuisine makes a special art of not only not wasting but also turning the cast-off into something special and memorable. Take your inner French peasant out for a stroll, and use what you have raised and grown and use it all. Learn to make stocks out of bones, pâtés out of organ meat, delicious terrines out of a hog’s head. Save the tough stems of asparagus for soups, the zucchini as big as a bat for savory pancakes. And learn to compost. It is not hard; nature knows how to rot.

Celebrate what you grow and raise with friends and family at the table. Use what you have raised to rekindle family ties and build community. Put the phone away, log out of Instagram and Facebook, and prepare a meal that is as much from your land as is possible. Experience real joy in that act of preparation. Make that your goal for every meal. When dining alone or with your loved one, be mindful of the food. Make each meal a Thanksgiving. And as often as you can, invite others to share in that act.

Yesterday we had a full day of work on the farm. But we found time last night to have four guests join us for a dinner on the front porch. The night before, I had braised one of our pork shoulders, then minced and rolled it with various herbs from the garden. The ultimate dish began with a potful of grits cooked with raw milk from a nearby farm; next came a large mess of freshly picked turnip greens, cooked in homemade chicken stock and homegrown garlic. The minced pork was fried in medallions and served atop the greens and grits.

It was a mindful celebration of eating and drinking wine with good friends that paid homage to the work we do. A sharing of that bounty that rewards us for the sore backs and the stress of maintaining the farm. No scheme, no data, just a simple conviction that producing, eating with love, and sharing with neighbors just might help feed the world.

(This is one from the archives. And it still is, I say modestly, relevant.)

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Reading this weekend: a history of Beaujolais, some Wodehouse, and A River Runs Through It (Maclean). The latter is one of my favorite books that I reread every year or two.

Ode to Greens

For certain I love any greens, yes, even with eggs and ham. I’ve had greens ‘most every way, including in savory jam.

Were you to come join us in a sumptuous dinner, expect to have collards or turnips, in summer or winter.

Do all of these choices seem common and easy? Then let me present you with rabe and some creasy.

I confess a love for the following (it’s always a hit): minced pork roast topped with collards, then served over steaming hot grits.

Or, as a gratin fresh from the oven, all bubbly and hot. And what’s not to love about greens served in a pepper hot-pot?

Eating them fried or sautéed, the more simple is best. After eating a spinach Maria, I suggest a laydown and rest.

Done in a Dutch oven with a nice ham hock, or perhaps in a chicken or hearty beef stock.

If you have a pork shoulder, boned out, at the ready, then roll it up with greens, with your hands holding steady.

Nothing better on an evening with snow on the ground, than waiting on mustard greens to slowly cook down.

I eat ‘em with cornbread, then drink the pot likker. Or eat ‘em with boudin and wine, so please do not snicker.

And seated at the Cracker Barrel more times than I can count, I’ve had greens simmered with bacon in prodigious amounts.

But, my favorite of all, saved for the glorious end, is to pluck them and eat them while my garden I tend.

Driving to New Castle

the courthouse in New Castle, KY

The best journey always begins with, “I got off the interstate on a two-lane road….” On that road there is not a gas station or convenience store or Arby’s to clutter the view. Instead, the road is among the more hopeful of exits from our sameness. It takes us away from our desire to cut through and over, from our need to engineer our way from point A to point B with the greatest of efficiencies.

That there was nothing at this particular exit was something, an overlooked something. A lane that weaves among old trees, old homes, small towns, small and large farms, herds of cattle, and the ghosts of tobacco fields. A road that leads eventually to New Castle, county seat of Henry County, Kentucky.

Its rural roots still in evidence with its barns and tidy farmhouses, Henry County is threatened on the west by a consuming yellow growth on the map. The name doesn’t matter, but for our purposes we will call it the “true nothing.” There, a horde of our species exists, locust-like, devouring the land and its resources, imagining itself, as it navigates between Costco and Starbucks, to be the center of the universe.

That we have reconfigured the particles present at the creation into a geegaw landscape is our true sacrilege. Offered up now is an asylum for those fearful of the dirt. It’s a place where the inmates, swaddled and cocooned safely away from the open windows, are allowed to conceive that they were not fashioned from that very same soil that lies, bricked and paved over, under their feet. Where, in their cells at night, they conjure that their atomized consumer ways are the definition of culture and community. Where not knowing is confused with knowing. Where “nothing” is mislabeled as “something.”

In New Castle, I stopped at the diner around the corner from the courthouse. Over a plate of turnip greens, beans, country-fried steak, and cornbread, I felt that I was somewhere knowable. Somewhere small enough that you not only knew your neighbors, but that there was a good chance you’d gone to school with them years before and that you would attend their funeral years in the future. To me, that’s a hopeful way to live.

My turnip greens now polished off with the last crumbs of cornbread, I stepped outside. A group of farmers had set up produce tables on the courthouse lawn, in the shade of a colony of massive white oaks. A Walmart tractor-trailer nudged up to the intersection. From its open windows blared rap music, the sound of nothing in a vehicle containing nothing. The perfect summation for what we lose when we surrender our something, forget that we came from dirt and are dirt in the making.

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Reading this weekend: Tobacco Harvest: an elegy, by Wendell Berry