Harvest Time

the harvest from this morning

I sit at my desk, this mid-August afternoon, listening as a three-gallon carboy of perry mead gurgles in the corner of the library. The steady baloop of escaping carbon dioxide in the fermentation lock is as good a signal as any that it is harvest time on the farm. Pears and apples are at their peak in the orchard, bending their tree branches low. As each branch is picked clean of fruit, it springs back skyward. In the hoop-house, the crowder peas climbing the sunflowers mimic the orchard fruits and weigh down the sturdy stalks with their vines and pods. Meanwhile, one row over, the eggplants and peppers … well, nothing stops their magic until Jack Frost pays a visit, and the postcard from Mother Nature says his arrival is going to be delayed this year.

The scuppernongs and muscadines are clamoring to be harvested; already, there are easily a couple of hundred pounds of fruit waiting to be plucked. Figs are coming on and the chard and turnips need to go in the ground for fall and winter. As the produce piles up on the counters and the porch, our kitchen goes into overdrive. Chutneys (sweet and savory), hedgerow jellies and herbed jams or preserves, meads and wines, compotes and sauces, dried fruits and leathers — all will be made within the next week or two. More buckets of peas to shell, pack in bags, and store alongside the blanched slices of eggplant in the chest freezer.

So much to do, so much to eat. Harvest time remains for us a season of satisfaction and joy, even after two decades. All the pleasures of a robust household economy married with a bountiful table. Nothing really matches, does it?

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Reading this weekend: Letters From a Stoic: the 124 epistles of Seneca

Small Town Resilience (a repeat)

We have spent a busy weekend making mead, bottling some older mead, butchering chickens, harvesting produce, and preparing to harvest apples and pears. So, I’ll leave you with this older piece on a different kind of resilience.

The aftermath of butchering chickens.

Last week a colleague spent three hours advancing 15 miles in the cancerous landscape of Atlanta.

Around the same time, I was commuting in central Missouri down a two-lane highway through a largely depopulated land of corn and beef cattle ornamented with the occasional red-brick one-room schoolhouse sitting in a grove of trees. The schoolhouses, long empty, were universally well kept, no broken windows, grass mowed—buildings cared for symbolic of the hope or expectation that they might once again serve a purpose.

The housing stock was older, yet well cared for and solid. But it was a lonely landscape of older couples and few children. I drove past the occasional activity of men in distant fields loading hay onto trailers using tractors built to accomplish much, the work done with such little effort as would have stunned even their grandfathers. Little effort and fewer people, freeing up the children and grandchildren to follow the classic road to town and city, a well-worn path since the ancient world, but one accelerated by our fossil-fueled innovations.

I stopped for the night in Boonville, Missouri, on the banks of the Missouri River. Boonville is not a prosperous town. Its trail of empty strip mall architecture dribbles from the outer fringe of the town’s core to the interstate, signaling a raising of the drawbridge, a calculated retreat against a yet unacknowledged enemy. But the core is still vibrant with neighborhoods, small-town hardware and furniture stores, plumbing and electrical businesses, an elegant restored hotel, a diner, and a bar and grill.

That evening I walked from the old hotel to the bar and grill, a place called Maggie’s, for dinner. The Midwest small-town bar and grill is unique. It is the genuine third place Ray Oldenburg spoke about. Warm and friendly, with people of all ages and classes: farmers, workers and professionals, town and country, producer and consumer. These gathering spots are spread across the agricultural heartland. They are the glue to the community, providing face-to-face time between neighbors. Time not gained in a traffic jam.

I am not naively asserting a rural idyll, without strife, tension, unemployment, severed families and the ills of too much idle time. Yet the small town is fundamentally more resilient, resilient because of its smallness and its proximity to productive land. Rural communities, with their face-to-face interactions, have provided the template for human existence for the past thousands of years.

Communities within a megacity are a mere echo of that life. They can nourish and sustain in the ascendancy, but their larger host survives only as wealth is pumped in from the outside world. When the pump is turned off, the decline is inevitable and rapid. Consider Rome, from a city of a million to a village of thousands in the space of mere generations. Or the specter of Detroit, reduced by half in one generation.

Perhaps these Boonvilles, these freshly painted one-room schoolhouses, these Midwestern pubs are the starter-cultures for the wort, the yeast for the fermentation required to restart the small farm, small-town life, a way to redirect the human trajectory from the cancerous growth to the healthy organism, from the complex to the comprehensible?

The cities like Atlanta in our landscape offer nothing but a promise of continued sprawl, congestion, and three hours and 15 miles stalled in the present. And if history is the judge, they offer us nothing in their inevitable decline.

For all the problems in that rural Missouri landscape, it is still one of latent hope. The problems it faces are fundamentally local and scalable. And if the survival of our future allowed bets, mine would be on the Boonvilles and rural counties in this land.

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Reading this weekend (2019): Underland (Macfarlane) and iGen (Twenge). The former is another terrific read by the author of The Old Ways (among others). And, the latter is a data driven survey of the generation that has grown up with the i-phone (be afraid, be very afraid).

The Things I Know I Don’t Know

Two decades have passed and it is hard to recall the precise moment when we decided to move to the country. The decision wasn’t arrived at because of any book read or any cultural force stirring in the zeitgeist. What I do remember is that one Sunday afternoon I made an innocent comment that we should find some land and get out of the city.

Two years and many hours of searching later, on another Sunday afternoon, we landed in this valley. We closed on the property in short order, locked up the house in town (eventually selling it), and moved to 70 acres of minimally improved property that we christened Winged Elm Farm. It was the summer of 1999, 20 years ago come September.

While Cindy already had farming experience, my own skill set was limited to what I had learned in running a satisfying yet low-profit bookstore. We started out with only the typical toolbox of an inner-city homeowner — screwdriver, corded drill, hammer —which left us trying to build a farm operation from very modest resources. We had to decide with each paycheck what was most important to purchase. Today when I look around the outbuildings of our well-provisioned setup, it is hard to imagine the time when we didn’t own a shovel or mattock, hoe or tiller, axe or chainsaw. Each of those acquisitions was a hard-won addition, but each allowed us to accomplish an important task in the building of an infrastructure.

We were both fortunate in having full-time jobs, albeit modestly compensated. Timely for our needs was that we began in an era of low costs on weanling steers and high prices on beef. Putting cattle to work on the land, we agreed, should be one of our first priorities. It was a good call: it put money in the bank and paid for most of the big-ticket purchases. Without the cattle there would be no orchards, house, barns, sawmill, tractors — or 20 years to look back on.

A farm is such a wonderful place to discover the limits of one’s hubris. I easily entertained a certainty, thanks to an article or book I had read, that I Know Better how to do something that others have been doing for generations. Nevertheless, over time, I discovered that the seasoned farmers around me were knowledgeable, resourceful, and frugal. And if I was willing to admit and embrace my own ignorance, heck, I might even learn a thing or two, or lots, from them.

True, the lessons learned were not always pretty, and in some cases they were pretty damned frightening. An afternoon spent in the company of an elderly neighbor helping dehorn and castrate his herd of cattle was thrift personified: his tools were piano wire and a pocket knife (not an experience I recommend or wish to repeat).

Another “memorable” afternoon, the same neighbor asked me to assist him in separating a grown mule from the family jewels. The mule was fairly determined this was not going to happen. Several hours and many well-placed kicks later (in spite of repeated attempts to restrain his legs with ropes), we finally turned the mule back out to pasture … still intact as the day he was born. (The lesson learned: Know when to let it go.)

Getting rid of the I Know Better instinct was possibly the hardest and probably the most important lesson I’ve learned these past 20 years. (Eventually, you really can knock some common sense into even the hardest of heads.) Not that I’ve become a sponge for what others can teach, mind you, but I have come to appreciate the value of accepting my own ignorance, and occasionally of listening to and accepting advice from others.

Donald Rumsfeld (that great agrarian thinker) distilled into one beautiful quote the essence of what I’ve learned over the past two decades: “There are things we know we know. We also know there are known unknowns; that is to say we know there are some things we do not know.” Amen, Brother. Amen.

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Reading this weekend: My Bookstore: writers celebrate their favorite places to browse, read, and shop.

Life Lessons in Killing a Hog

The ideal: When you look at a diagram, you see that the proper placement of a killing shot is just off center of an X formed by two lines that run from each ear to the opposite eye. The reality: When you’re faced with a pen full of weanling pigs that never stand still for more than a moment as they jostle for feed, you discover that that perfectly executed shot of the drawing is nothing more than a pipe dream.

At only 65 pounds, the chosen pig of friends had been handed down a sentence of early termination, the result of an already grossly distended hernia that was growing larger by the day. On a pet or a human, repair would be a straightforward, albeit expensive procedure. On a hog destined for slaughter in another six months, it was a foregone decision to move the timetable forward.

Some years back, our farm had a 200-pound barrow that broke its back in a rugby scrum with its brethren. A friend came over and assisted me in the killing and butchering. The hog, located at the far end of a two-acre wooded lot, had to be dragged across the uneven ground to the scalding pot. “Dead weight” has never been such an apt description.

If you’ve never done it, dragging a dead animal is a most peculiar exercise. It rolls about and shifts weight without warning, the bulk animated and yet unliving. (The dead can be such hard work.) No matter how often I have to do it, manhandling a carcass still comes as a disquieting reminder, one that manages to be both alien and, with familiar elements of the personal, foreshadowing.

At our friend’s farm, with Cindy and Sabine looking on, Michael hit the mark on the second try. He and I both sprang on the now stunned animal. I plunged the sticking knife in above the sternum. Pushing against bone for leverage, I severed one of the carotid arteries. The pig bled out on the grass. The other weanlings showed no interest in his fate and continued instead to gorge on the corn we had spread as bait.

Over the next couple of hours, Michael and I cleaned, scalded, scraped, eviscerated, cut, and packaged the pig into smaller primal cuts. Our task finally completed, the table cleaned, and the offal bagged and removed, we then retired to the shade for a beer.

Butchering is never as tidy as the illustrations show. My clothes were blood-splattered, and spare bits of hair from the vigorous skin scraping adhered to the far parts of my anatomy. If I’d been stopped by a state trooper on my way home, a serious inquiry followed by a search of the truck would inevitably have ensued.

Some hours later, back at our farm, Cindy positioned the livestock trailer at the entrance of our wooded hog paddock. Three 300-pound animals that need to be loaded for a trip to the processor on Tuesday reside there. (Although advocates of self-sufficiency, we believe that such large-scale butchery is best left to a professional.)

Such are the cycles on the farm, as mirrored in life: beginnings and endings and beginnings again. As the long day closed, we found ourselves sitting quietly in the back yard, idly gazing out at the hill pasture. The soon-to-be-full moon was rising in the east with Jupiter in a slow-motion chase. The wind tossed the trees on the far Southern horizon, and it was some minutes later before the breeze found us. The last light in the sky, a soft lavender in the west, finally diminished. With some reluctance, not wanting to release the day, we got up and went inside to read for the closing hour before bedtime.

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Reading this week: The Whole Okra (Smith), Deep Work (Newport), Letters From Europe (Thomson). The latter is an account, through letters back home, of the author’s book-buying trip to Europe on behalf of Ohio Wesleyan University, published in 1856.

Killing Rabbits While Reading Poetry

All men kill the thing they love

By all let this be heard,

Some do it with a bitter look,

Some with a flattering word

The coward does it with a kiss,

The brave man with a sword!

                                    —Oscar Wilde

 

I came around the corner in my farm truck and there it was. The rabbit ran almost all the way across the road, but an oncoming truck sent it back into my path. Then it was over — a couple of thrashes and it lay still, carrion for any nearby buzzard. Around the next corner I braked, stopped, and moved a box turtle to the other side of the road. Such is the state of small mercies on a small East Tennessee highway.

This particular trip, I was dashing into Sweetwater, after a nap, to pick up some diesel, in the truck, for my tractor. Because more fuel was needed to cut the hay, to feed our sheep over the next winter. While driving over rabbits I listened to “Crazy Town,” a new podcast from the Post Carbon Institute decrying the absurdity of our faith in a pro-growth, fossil fuel­­–dependent future on a planet of finite resources (even if partially powered by “sustainable” energy). I shook my head sagely in agreement as I listened, earning an indulgence against the sins of this life. Fortunately, these indulgences are for now only $2.49 each a gallon.

Earlier in the week a post on eating lamb fries resulted in a couple of vegetarians unfriending me on Facebook. They can handle my omnivorish ways but not my nose-to-tail (or should I say, cheek-to-balls) culinary choices. For in our modern hierarchy of privilege and separation from our sins against nature, consuming testicles apparently ranks as a much more serious crime than devouring steak.

Last weekend, after helping me replace the expansion bolts on the sickle bar mower, some friends stayed to dine with us. One of them defended the Green New Deal as we ate farm-raised catfish from Mississippi that had been conveniently delivered to our nearby Walmart. We all agreed that the plan and the deal were next to useless, having been predicated on the same notion that growth is both sustainable and desirable. “But still,” one of them said, “it is better than nothing.”

Last month one million-plus students around the world went on strike against our inability or unwillingness to do anything about climate change. They caught rides, drove, and used mass transit to attend rallies; they posted on social media and waved signs. Reporters jetted to far-flung locations to catch the latest soundbites of sincere Scandinavians and city dwellers in 125 countries in order to rebroadcast the urgent message to an aging and dwindling audience of people who still watch TV.

Between April 2017 and April 2018, Tennessee beekeepers lost 75 percent of their colonies.

We each kill rabbits.

All men kill the thing they love

By all let this be heard….

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Reading this weekend: Nathan Coulter (Berry), Rocket Men (Kurson)

Listening to this weekend: Crazy Town podcast