Wild Appetites

The insect buzzing behind me as I squatted on the ground sounded like it was imprisoned in a jar. Setting my basket of freshly plucked chanterelles down, I hastened to latch the bottom of the gate. When I stood up, I turned, hoping to spot what I expected to be a large bug. What I spotted instead didn’t have six legs, in fact, didn’t have legs at all, and it was coiled maybe eight feet away in the leaves under a cluster of trees between the woods and the pasture.

It was the first timber rattlesnake I have ever spotted on our farm in all these 21 years. I stared at it for a minute, then slowly backed away. And as I later joked, I’m still backing.

The rattle sound is unique. Not loud like a lifetime of TV and movie westerns led me to believe. It is distinctly consistent — some say it’s more like a cicada’s rasp than a maraca’s rattle — and once heard, remembered.

The timber rattlesnake is found in all counties of Tennessee and is endangered from loss of habitat. Killing rattlers, or any other native snake in the state, is illegal barring “genuine threat.” As the rattler is reported to be a poor candidate for relocation, the preservation emphasis has been on maintaining existing habitat and preserving in situ populations.

My initial response was more curiosity than alarm. Yet reports of bites by this species are rare, usually the result of someone trying to get up close and personal. Rattlesnakes fulfill an important niche in the ecology of the woodlands. And I will take it as a feather in the cap of this region’s rich diversity that the rattler is found among our pastures and forests.

I walked back to the house — past the small ravine where a beautiful red fox with a magnificent plume of a tail ventures forth for the occasional raid on the hens; under the rainy skies, where on clearer days Cooper’s and red-tailed hawks soar, seeking the same diet— thinking about place and ownership. It is not our prerogative, as Mr. Berry says, to “make war against the world and its wild appetites.” The responsibility is on us to secure our lands with good fencing and vigilance, to lock up our livestock at night, to listen for the rattle, as it were, before resorting to our lethal ways.

In the evening, over a dinner of a chanterelle alfredo, we discussed the snake sighting. One of us felt that along with the advent of tick season, she had just one more reason not to venture out for a stroll in the woods. I took another bite of the pasta and decided that a good pair of boots and a careful ear were a sufficient protective measure. Indeed, yesterday a friend and I passed through the same gate, roamed the same woods, and returned with another fine harvest of wild mushrooms but no sightings of our rattling friend, which was both good and disappointing.

A Summer Walk

I enter the woods near the wet weather spring, the ground moist and spongy under foot. The air is cool, so different from the oven-like summer day left behind a few feet back. The lane as it curves up into the woods dips then rises gradually up the long slope of the ridge. Becky weaves back and forth in the brush following her own invisible road of smells and enticements.

Leaving the lane I begin my own weave in the woods, not her scent driven journey, but no less purposeful for that. Boletes and milk-caps carpet the floor, sprung into being after the rain. An act of creation as remote from the distant buzzing saws and trucks in the next valley where a man’s son’s clear-cut an inheritance left. A pact, I imagine, completed with the same quiet understanding and betrayal of the sons in the final pages of “The Good Earth.”

Looking for a flush of chanterelles, or at least enough to accompany dinner, I find only two. I am now in the middle of the woods where sounds entering are muted and filtered, sanitized of offence. A doe jumps and runs away with an exaggerated slowness. I know that dance. She has left a fawn in the brush and leads Becky far away before easily eluding. Looking nearby I see the bright red and white spots, no more than twenty pounds, of a fawn asleep, unaware of her mother’s exertions.

I have now come to the fence at the base of the ridge. Newly installed last year, a large branch has fallen crushing the wire to the ground. Shifting the branch, I repair the wire with my fence pliers, each strand crimped back into tight harmony with the whole. We walk the perimeter until we get to the gates between the upper pasture and the hopper field. I pull and latch the gates. I’ll move the cattle in a few days and have come on this walk to make the pasture secure.

We walk out of the shade across the pasture. Becky plunges into a pond to cool off sending a dozen bull frogs skittering from shore to the depths. I’m sweating as we reenter the woods. Seemingly less open to wonder, the details of the remaining to-do list begin to crowd in as we walk back down the lane. Becky, no longer chasing scents, senses the change and walks by my side.

The woods now seem a bit stifling as the mid-afternoon sun drives all thought of breeze away. We cross the pasture back to the barn. Becky dives for the shade under the chicken coop. I piddle around for a few minutes and then follow her example and head to the house for a nap.

A Soggy World

The debate the other evening with some neighbors was whether a dry summer or a wet summer was preferred. A silly debate because we have no control either way over the weather. We want our rain when we want it and our sunny days the same way.

But after a month of solid rain I am, at this moment in time, solidly on the side of a dry summer. Tomatoes are bursting their skins while still green. The gutters fell off the front and back of the main barn. The winter squash vines rotted away before setting fruit. The workshop has flooded four times. And I’ve lost count of the times the drive has had to be graded.

On the plus side I harvested yesterday, with the help of a friend, two and half pounds of beautiful and delectable chanterelle mushrooms from our woods. Last night I sautéed some of them in butter, added some brandy, heavy cream and parmesan cheese before spooning them over pork chops. That dinner took a bit of the sting out of living in a soggy world.

Mushroom harvest

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Reading this week: Founding Gardeners: the revolutionary generation, nature and the shaping of the American nation by Andrea Wulf