Farm Cooking

Among these crowded shelves where I sit are more than 100 cookbooks and books on food history. They are shelved immediately behind my writing desk for quick reference and inspiration when the spirit flags during the day. They are a varied lot. At least a half-dozen books on curing meat and another clutch of titles on preserving the harvest. A history of bourbon resting next to a culinary history of mushrooms, which in turn leans on a book of Cuban food. It is an egalitarian crowd, rubbing shoulders just over mine.

Farming, for me, has always been about providing for our table. A thought that had me thinking about the books that have inspired me to cook what we have produced. And in the last 22 years, we have produced 95 percent of the meat we consume and 75 percent of the vegetables, so, we do need a lot of inspiring. I try and cook based on two criteria. The first is giving consideration for what is in season or what we have that is preserved, cured, or frozen. The second is factoring in that the ingredients are easily grown, substituted, or found at a general grocery store (no champagne vinegar required).

Below are five titles that, while not exhaustive, are favorites because to my way of thinking, they are farm friendly. Certainly, plenty of worthy candidates have been left out. But there they rest behind me, whenever I need them, shelved somewhere between the Convivial Dickens and The Wurst! German cookbook.

  1. Butter Beans to Blackberries: Recipes from the Southern Garden (R. Lundy). As Roy Blount Jr. said, “I declare, Ms. Lundy, this is all so good.” And like all truly good cookbooks, this jewel is part memoir, part travelogue, and mostly an immense resource for those gardening in the Upper South. Flip through it and look for the recipes with an accumulation of grimy fingerprints or splattered with juice. Those are the ones that get referenced and cooked from often. From the first time you fix Lundy’s crookneck squash casserole (p. 208), corn fritters, okra grits and winter tomato gravy, or even turnip custard, you know you are not going to be bored with your garden produce. But you might need an extra stomach or three.
  1. A Gracious Plenty: Recipes and Recollections from the American South (J. Edge). This fine collection is drawn from a deep well of knowledge, community cookbooks. Red-eye gravy, perfect biscuits, squirrel dumplings, pickled pigs’ feet, cream of peanut soup, and for the cold winter nights, a glass of frothy syllabub. This is Southern cooking at its best, with one hand on the skillet and the other plunged into the dirt, a shooting of a rabbit while also mentally composing a list of ingredients needed for rabbit pie (p. 187) kind of text. It has roots; water them if you wish to keep them.
  1. Greens (T. Head). This is one of the Savor the South cookbooks, put out by the University of North Carolina. Other titles have wonderful names like Tomatoes and Beans and Field Peas or Ham. Each is a slim volume devoted to the history and recipes of the title subject. While I have a dozen from the series, only Thomas Head’s work gets pulled down multiple times a year. Because, in East Tennessee, we grow greens, we eat greens, we love our greens. But even the most devoted greenophile needs some inspiration. Head provides it. Potlikker soups and turnip green gratins grace these pages, as do oysters Rockefeller with collards and, an as yet untried, collard green marmalade. Believe me, there is no excuse to grow bored with the bounty of greens. (Cooking the basic Southern greens, p. 18, for lunch will set you just right for an afternoon of working in the garden or taking a nap. Your choice.)
  1. French Feasts: 299 Traditional Recipes for Family Meals and Gatherings (S. Reynaud). This choice was a toss-up with the author’s classic, Pork and Sons, a cookbook that starts with killing a 400-pound hog and ends with 350 pages of recipes using everything but the squeal. Why do I like French country cooking? Because so much of it mirrors the essence of Southern cooking, as the Reynaud title indicates: family meals and gatherings. That cross between conviviality and seasonal eating speaks to me of home. With an emphasis on what is fresh and in season and the best way to celebrate its goodness, each page for the small-farm owner is a new way to reinterpret the possibilities in your own larder. The butcher’s wife’s pork chops (p. 228) is just such a recipe, made new depending on the season in which it is cooked.
  1. The River Cottage Meat Book (H. Fearnley-Whittingstall). Like the Reynaud book, this work begins with a slaughter, then proceeds nose to tail through the whole pantheon of meat — beef, lamb and mutton, pork, poultry, game, and offal of all sorts, it is all in here. This 2004 work helped shape how we farm and certainly influenced the ways in which I cook. The citrus-braised lamb shanks (p. 300) that we eat only once a year (when we put a lamb in the freezer) are worth the wait.

That last sentence sums up the wisdom found in the pages of these titles: The pleasures of cooking something remarkable at select times of the year. No mid-January fresh strawberries, no lamb shanks whenever you want them. Patience and honor are the best seasonings for the simple good ingredients you bring from your farm to your plate.

Eat, as my grandmother Roberts said, until you have had a sufficiency. That will be enough.

An Offally Good Lamb Pâté

Friday morning was devoted to slaughtering an eleven-month-old ram lamb. And this morning we butchered it into a myriad of tasty cuts, reserving one leg to cure in the Norwegian fashion of a Fenalår. This will be the second lamb ham cured over the years. The first was left in the salt too long and yielded a rock-hard piece of salt with a somewhat muttony flavor profile. Yet there are high hopes this one yields a more palatable result.

One of the culinary pleasures of the slaughter is fresh offal. On the ten-point scale of adventurous eating I routinely score a 7.5. So, here is my offally good lamb pâté recipe as a challenge. Keep in mind that the amounts, to my way of cooking, are mere guides. You know what to do.

Ingredients

  • Lamb: trim 2 kidneys, 2 testicles, 1 liver, and 1 heart. Add 1 pound of ground pork and a quarter minced onion.
  • Grind twice. The first with a medium grind and the second with a fine grind.
  • Add two eggs, four minced cloves of garlic, a twist or two of nutmeg, a ¼ tsp each of ground ginger, ground clove, and red pepper flakes. Measure out a ¼ cup of bourbon and add to the mix. Feel free, depending on the time of day, to measure out more for yourself.
  • Mix thoroughly and fill up ramekins to a ¼ inch below the top. Place in a roasting pan and fill with water to ½ way up the ramekins. Bake at 350 degrees for an hour and half.
  • Remove from the oven (I then place a pat of butter on top of each) and place the individual containers on a towel to cool. Refrigerate for at least a day. Freeze any that you won’t eat within 5 days.

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Reading this weekend: Watching For The Wind (J. Edinger) and Book of Tripe and gizzards, kidneys, feet, brains and all the rest (S. Reynaud)

A Little Break

Good morning,

I will be taking a break from farm posts over the next month, returning in October. The backlog of farm-to-do tasks waits for no man. And this man needs to be busy. We are, however, spending this day on some pleasant homestead activities: making our annual pontack sauce (think homemade Worcestershire sauce), a wet brine cure for beef cheek pastrami, curing pork jowls to make guanciale, and slicing ten pounds of bacon, among the other usual tasks.

Beef-Cheek Pastrami: before smoking and steaming

See you in a month,

Brian

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Reading this weekend: Woodston, the biography of an English farm (J. Lewis-Stempel)

Happy Fourth of July

On October 7th, 1780, the American militia, led by 1100 Overmountain Men from what is today Tennessee, cornered the British at King’s Mountain, South Carolina. In the decisive battle that followed these men changed the course of the Southern campaign for American Independence. The Battle of King’s Mountain was led and fought by backwoodsmen, including the father of Davy Crockett and many of the earliest names in Tennessee history.

Sixty or so years later in a narrow valley, in 1840 and 1843, not far from where our farm is located, down a small gravel road, two of those heroes of the American Revolution were buried in a small church cemetery. The church is long gone. Only a hundred or so graves are found in this out of the way spot. This year, as we have done for close to twenty years, Cindy and I place flowers on the graves of Big Jim Campbell and William Moore to honor their memory.

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This is a semi-annual re-post (typically when the Fourth falls on a Sunday). Enjoy the day and find a moment, no matter which side of the pond you live on, to toast the courage and fortitude of the Overmountain Men. I am off to pick wild blackberries this morning before it gets too hot. Next week I’ll return with a new missive from the farm.

Another, No New Blog Post, Post

I am worn out, with projects stacked upon projects and no end in sight today. Besides, sitting down to write this morning and all that came to mind was another screed against the current condition. And dear reader, I have too much respect for you and your time to launch yet one more of those into the world. So, I’m off to weed an overdue row of tomatoes, fix a stubborn PTO shaft, complete the 1000-hour service on the large tractor, hopefully take a nap, call my dad, and then dine with friends tonight in Sweetwater.

Cheers,

A healthy frame of honey

Brian