A Garden Worth Celebrating

Crape Myrtle in the morning light

Holding two white-egg turnips with attached greens in my right hand, I fold the harvest knife with my left and slide it into my pocket. Walking back to the house from the garden, I mutter, “Take that, Monty Don, you pompous twit.”

Why waste my breath on Monty (real name: Montagu Denis Wyatt Don), you might ask? After all, here is a man I had not even heard of until a video of him showing off his spectacular two acres of British gardens went viral this summer. (Yes, I did share the video with a handful of fellow gardeners.) Could it be envy?

Casting stones from a glass house whose library contains books on the impossibly out of touch gardens of Prince Charles is a dangerous activity. Yet, stay with me as I pick up a hefty rock, throw my arthritic arm back into pitching position, and let it fly.

We need to share less garden porn from the Monty Dons and P. Allen Smiths and more stories and videos celebrating real working people and their gardens. Here in our valley, in that slanting patch of land between narrow ridges, people fed themselves long before the current crisis. They grew okra and beans and tomatoes and potatoes. They did not make a fuss, indeed, might even have been insulted if you called attention to their plot, as if you thought them incapable of creating a garden both tidy and productive.

Gardens in our valley are not for show. They are not tended by armies but by single soldiers. Yet there is a utility and a beauty to them, nestled against a barn or tucked away behind a pig paddock. They exist to feed the families who maintain them. But it is also clear that the caretakers take pride in their weed-free plots and find immense satisfaction in preserving their harvest, whether it be canning tomatoes, shelling beans, or salting cabbage into crocks.

The sight of a well-maintained vegetable garden next to a humble trailer or small clapboard house is both beautiful and inspiring. Far more impressive than the celebrity showplace is the garden with neat rows of beans cultivated by the man who works third shift to keep our modern lives running. Let us share that story, help that video go viral, hold that gardener up as worthy of celebration and emulation.

Pasta alla Puttanesca

The perfect blend of hot and cold.

Like a perfectly made Old Fashioned, pasta puttanesca relies on simple ingredients properly prepared. This is the high point of our weeknight summer dining on the farm.

Ingredients:

  • A couple of very ripe tomatoes (preferably just picked)
  • 4-8 cloves of garlic
  • 15-25 leaves of basil
  • Olive oil
  • Coarse salt
  • Fresh ground pepper
  • Pasta: either shell, bowtie, or penne

Steps:

  • All in the same bowl: chop the tomatoes, chop your garlic, shred the basil, add coarse salt, then grind your pepper until your arm grows tired. Add about half-a-cup olive oil, gently mix. Stick the bowl into the fridge for two hours.
  • Boil the pasta, drain, put in the serving bowl. Pour the cold ingredients over the hot pasta and toss.

Eat at once. Giuliano Bugialli admonishes you to not add cheese. I agree. Enjoy. I suggest a glass or two of red wine to wash it down.

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Reading tonight: The Fine Art of Italian Cooking (G. Bugialli)

Notes on The Harvest

For those of you with your cold Dixie longnecks in hand and ready to ride with me, we will resume our 2006 journey to Louisiana next week. Perhaps.

The onslaught of veggies has been underway since June. The bean field alone is threatening to overwhelm our storage capabilities, and certainly my energies. The tomatoes are weighing down the stalks even with a daily harvest. The okra grows from one inch to four inches and inedibility overnight (though some say the inedibility begins when it’s placed on the plate). But at least the dent corn is harvested and drying, so I can check it off my list.

And then there is this: A few evenings back I found a handful of Granny Smith apples that had fallen to the ground. Thirty minutes later, and a bushel basket was full and inside the house. Which, if my farm journal is any guide, means the Foxwhelp apples are almost ripe and will be ready to harvest any moment. A full morning will be required to gather the heavy crop from those large trees. The old orchard may have been planted with semi-dwarf rootstock 20 years ago, but … My How The Trees Have Thrived. The Yarlington Mills and both the Arkansas and the Kingston Blacks are a few weeks behind the Foxwhelp, meaning they will not be ready until mid-August.

It has taken many years to adjust my expectations of an apple harvest to our East Tennessee weather, and adjust them again to a warming climate. In my mind, perhaps because of nearly a lifetime of reading rural literature from England and other northern climes, my expectation was always that gathering takes place in the fall. Yet year after year the harvest disappointed with wormy, wooden, and rotten apples. I’d walk among the trees in October or November waiting for some transformation, not realizing that the transformation had happened a few months past.

Eventually my expectations for harvest time shifted from blaming the trees to simply resetting the calendar. As a farmer and orchardist, the fault was mine, a failure to observe being a chief liability for anyone who wishes to if not thrive, then at least muddle through with a minimum of waste. But wisdom is a tough mistress to keep if she is ignored.

Harvest tip: When your apple and pear trees bloom in March and April, expect your fruit to arrive in late July through September (unless, of course, your trees or fruit choose an earlier or later date to bloom or ripen).

The majority of trees in the orchard are old English and Southern cider varieties, so the apples will be sweated for a week after harvest. It’s a simple process in which they are piled in the barn on a tarp and allowed to further ripen and soften. After sweating, the cider press will be retrieved from the well house — wasps exterminated from their clever hiding places — and the pressing will begin.

If I were diligent about a thorough harvesting, I could easily expect 20 or more gallons of juice from these first trees. But, knowing that the Foxwhelps are just the start, with the remainder of the apples and the Kelly pears crowding into the calendar in August, I’ll aim to produce more or less 10 gallons of cider from each session with the press, allowing an extra gallon or two for apple jelly. The “cake” from the pressing and the windfalls gathered will be fed to the pigs.

August also brings the muscadine harvest, easily 200 pounds of fruit from our little vineyard that traditionally are turned into even more jelly and then some wine. I’ll distill some of the latter into brandy or gin using my five-gallon copper alembic still.

Harvest tip: Add herbs or spices when making preserves. Rosemary and ginger are perfect flavorings for apple jelly. A bouquet garni of black peppercorns and coriander seeds added to the juice can also give your buttered and jellied toast a nice pop in the morning.

September brings the endless supply of Callaway crabapples, which when fermented with honey make for a delicious mead. Hopefully, sometime between now and then, the figs will be ready — that is, if we ever get more than a trickle of rain. Once they ripen it will be a race between me, the chickens, and the wasps to determine who eats them first.

Harvest tip on figs: Gather early morning before sunup or late in the evening. Otherwise, you risk grabbing a wasp with every other fig. Believe me when I tell you, that grows old rather quickly.

Harvest season in Tennessee is really an almost year-round event. From the greens of winter and spring, the traditional vegetable season of summer, and the small and large fruits from summer to fall, it takes planning, energy, and a willingness to forgive yourself for not saving it all. My friend Tim likes to say, “In East Tennessee we can grow everything, just nothing really well.” True, the weather can be a challenge, the soil is never what you want, and the insects are always ravenous. But overall, I have found that the harvest seasons on this farm are usually generous if the farmer is willing to do the work.

Harvest tip: Take notes in a journal on when vegetables and fruits ripen. Note also how you cooked or preserved their bounty. Your next year’s self will thank you.

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left to right: her son-in-law Lindsey, grandson Joseph, nephew Brian (me). Marjorie Jo Roberts Yeomans.

Addendum: Our Memory Keeper turns 100 today. A century is a long time to be an active witness. Happy Birthday, Aunt Jo!

A Garden Tour, Complete With Pigs

Between the Covid-related lockdowns, my nephew’s weeklong visit, and the two-week stay by a farm volunteer from Maine, the gardens look better and are more productive than any in recent years. So, let’s go on a tour of the farm gardens so I can show you what is growing.

Who says you can’t put lipstick on a pig: she just polished off some beets.

The entire garden area lies beyond the north side of the inner barn corral and the east side of the outer corral. The plantings are split between the 25-by-50-foot hoop house and two large plots to its south and north.

The hoop house is laid out to accommodate six rows of produce, with each row watered by drip tape. Growing currently are tomatoes, tomatillos, celery, peppers, cucumbers, cabbage, winter squash, kale, and some remarkably resilient Swiss chard. The chard was planted last August and has already been cut to the ground four times. The plants’ bases have grown to more than four inches in diameter, and they quickly send up fresh shoots after cutting. In a very unscientific experiment, I plan to let them keep regenerating for as long as they would like.

The tomatoes just started ripening in the past two weeks. Already, they manage to make an appearance on the breakfast, lunch, and dinner menus, but my favorite way to eat a tomato will always be the most basic: a thick slab sprinkled with coarse salt and fresh-ground pepper, preferably eaten under a large shade tree.

The potatoes (red Norland and white Kennebec) and the turnips have all been harvested from the bed just north of the hoop house. The former, planted this year in a new location, managed to elude the worst of the pests and yielded a couple of hundred pounds. The turnips always grow well, and they will be replanted under cover later next month for a winter crop to see us into next spring. Meanwhile, they have been replaced with two varieties of winter squash.

Also in the north garden is a row of kale and chard. Our farm volunteer, Ali, just finished trimming the chard to its core and cutting the kale back to the main stalk to encourage fresh growth on both. Each should produce well into the winter. One row over is the okra, a Louisiana heirloom called Dub Jenkins, with thick round pods — which, when rolled in corn meal batter and fried alongside catfish this weekend, was declared delectable by all. Tennessee melons are planted in a double row next to the okra, and they should be ready to begin harvesting later this week. A large mound of prolific and tasty yellow crookneck squash rounds out the north bed.

In the south garden, closest to the inner corral, is the bean patch. It consists of four 50-foot rows, one of Murphy pole beans, two of Polecat field peas, and one of Snow on the Mountain butter beans. This past week we harvested more than 30 pounds of the Murphy pods, then strung, snapped, and froze them. The butter beans will be ready to harvest in another week; field peas will begin in August and continue heavy well into September.

Across the eastern fence from these three gardens live six fast-growing gilts, happy beneficiaries of all excess produce. Over two decades of farming, we have learned the importance of raising at least one garden pig each year. There are always hogs in the woods, but having one or more near the garden makes for a thrifty and nutritional way to supplement their feed. As soon as they hear that garden gate open, they crowd the fence, grunting and snorting and shoving, waiting to be favored with overripe tomatoes or tough outer cabbage leaves.

Well, that is the tour done and dusted. Give me a second to turn on the water in the melon patch and close the gate, and then we can head back to the house. I hope you’ve enjoyed walking with me today.

Notes on the Intelligence of Farm Animals

Sheep: As usual I am typing these words thirty minutes before sunrise. Which means the coming day is already visible if not yet actually arrived. In true fashion, and I knew this was going to happen, the ewes and lambs are lined up, fifty yards away, patiently staring at the farmhouse waiting to see me before erupting into impatient noise.

Later, turning them out onto the pasture that rises behind the main orchard, they will, all day, keep a keen eye out for my presence. As a flock or an individual, sheep are surely the dumbest creatures raised on the farm. The merest sound of a bucket, the rattle of a gate, will send our small flock of thirty sprinting hundreds of yards back to the hay-yard. They will mill around, bleating in their annoying way, before moseying back out the gates and up the hill. Then an hour later, one ewe will come down by herself to see if there is anything going on at the evening domicile. She will see me over in the south garden weeding among the beans. The brainless twit will start her call and the damn sheep, standing deep in good clover, will charge down, again. And again…all day, over and over, until at the final charge they get locked up for the night.

Pigs: It never fails, some non-farmer visiting eventually will get around to telling me that “pigs are very smart”. Where does this nonsense come from? I always reply that they are smart in the same way your overweight third cousin twice removed is smart, they can find their way to the dinner table and find their way to bed. That my friend is about the sum of it. As long as you have a bucket of feed (and the patience of a Job) you can match wits with a hog. Which, depending on the day, is all this farmer can muster, sadly.

Chickens: Meanwhile, that underappreciated genius of the farm, the chicken, never forgets and always is watching. This may surprise you as the epithet “bird brain” floats around your head. Well, my dear reader, next time someone calls you bird brain, wear it with pride. Some of our chickens, it is true, cannot figure out how to walk through a gate they have walked through a hundred times. But just for grins go scatter a bit of grass seed, around the corner and out of sight. Before you have even reentered the house a scraggly hen, who had lurked behind the well house, spying you out, is busily scratching and eating. Even more remarkable, here she is, some distance from any other feathered kin, not making a sound, yet still able to telepathically signal her location. And before you can say “Bob’s your uncle”, they are all dining on a buffet of that expensive seed you bought. Remarkable.

Or, plant corn, out of sight, in a field the chickens never deign to grace, within minutes they are scratching the furrows out for the conveniently spaced morsels you decided to feed them. Bird brain, indeed.

And all the rest: We will have to leave an examination of geese (kin of sheep), cattle (distant relatives of chickens), and horses and mules for a later date. Although, as for the later it would be well to remember Faulkner’s line, He will work for you patiently for 10 years for the chance to kick you once.

Ah, the sun is now up, and the sheep have begun their call. I am sure the fat cousins in the hog lot are waiting. And, out at the barn, the chickens, since I left the gate open last night, are already out in the corn plot looking for the October beans left hidden for them in yesterday’s planting. All, that is, except the one who scurries back and forth on the edge of the chicken-coop fence, unable to find the exit.

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Reading this weekend: String too short to be saved (Hall). A nice little memoir of spending summers on his grandparents farm.